The Elephant in the Room

October 1, 2013

Or, the elephant on the blog, as the case may be. I've now officially been on the South African payroll for six months, and I have yet to discuss the professional side of my world here. While this admittedly was partly a conscience omission, I want to explain it a bit further, as ultimately my career is the reason we are in South Africa in the first place.

I started this blog as a means to explore, document and capture all aspects of our experience here, and so I think it's time I open this can of worms. 

Firstly, why haven't I delved into the "work" side of things yet?

It's boring. I realize the vast majority of people reading this blog are our friends and family and that they are interested in reading stories of the things we are doing and seeing photos of us exploring new places. Let's face it: reading a 2000-word monologue on my challenges and experiences with Broad-Based Black Economic Empowerment ratings, the supplier development movement, and the impact of transformation on extrinsic motivation of today's workforce...probably doesn't qualify as light entertainment.

I'm finding new balance. When I arrived in the office here in Johannesburg and met with the lead partner of the practice I was joining, he said to me (I'm massively paraphrasing, but this is the gist of it) that if he were me, delivery would not be his number one goal. In his mind I am here for the cultural experience, and if all I'm focusing on is work, I'm not going to get that. While doing well here is critical, his definition of that doesn't mean forgoing everything else in my life. It means striking a balance so that I gain the full benefits of being here from both a professional and a personal perspective. If every ounce of my energy is focused on work, I will be foregoing pieces and chunks of this incredible experience at every turn, which add up to a huge missed opportunity. All of the random adventures this blog showcases represent how we're going about making this as well-rounded of an experience as we possibly can. 

I live it every day. When I blog, it's my fun time. It's my time to think about and spend time doing something else. I spend so much time at work thinking about things and analyzing them that at the end of the day I need to turn my brain over to something else for awhile. 

Having said all of that, if I omit the career-side of our experience, I'm only showing one piece of the pie that make up our lives here. Part of why I wanted to live abroad in the first place was to work somewhere new as I think that's when the rubber meets the road in terms of how you really see, feel and begin to understand the differences between "here" and "there". 

One of the most difficult questions for me to answer is probably "how is work going?". This isn't because it's a complicated answer or because the transition has been tough. It's because I find it hard to genuinely express how positive this experience has been, how much I have learned about myself, and how much I have grown professionally in this short space of time.

The thought processes, the business environment, the office culture, they are all different and new to me. It has been an eye-opening and humbling experience that is stretching me everyday to look at things in a new light. While I have found balance in a different way in South Africa than I did in Canada, I would be giving the wrong impression if I gave the appearance that my career is suddenly less important to me. Quite the opposite actually. It is at the crux of why we came here and I know this experience is not only going to stay with me throughout my career, but more importantly, it is going to shape my career. And whatever shape it takes, I'm up for the challenge. 

Car, Couch and Career

September 25, 2013

This is a post I have been wanting to write for a long time. But, good things take time. And so, I am elated that I am finally able to write about the three things we thought might never happen. Or, at least, the things that took their time happening.

I also wanted to write this post is to provide some colour on the settling-in process and some of the "logistical challenges" we experienced with moving overseas. Because let's face it; while the travelling and exploring is amazing, at the root of it all is life, and while it might not conjure up the same feelings of excitement as seeing the desert elephants in Namibia or hiking in the world's third largest canyon, it is the reason we are able to do those things, and ultimately forms the total experience of living here.

Before arriving in South Africa M and I settled on the vehicle we wanted to purchase here: a Toyota Fortuner. We had heard horror stories about the poor condition of the roads here, and that an SUV would provide better safety for us driving around in a city that sells smash and grab protection for a reason. However; after arriving in Joburg and spending time in the city, we soon became aware of the other side of the coin: petrol is expensive, the roads are narrow, the parking spaces small, and the vast majority of people drive compact hatchbacks, putting a nice target on a giant shiny SUV. My company offers a car purchase program to facilitate the vehicle purchase process for expats, but, like most things that are new and not-so-well-oiled, there were some hiccups along the way. After over two months of living here and still without our own car, we decided we might need to consider changing course. Actually, I woke up one day so frustrated with the whole thing that in the (rental) car on the way to work I said to M, "Maybe we should just go out and buy a car ourselves." By the end of the week, he had found us an adorable hatchback, still under warranty, and it could be ours by the end of the week. Sold! You might be wondering why we didn't just do this in the first place? With all of the things that required sorting, it only made sense to utilize the few programs that are in place to help make things a bit easier. And besides, the important part of this story is that while it didn't work out as planned, it actually worked out better.

Given a two-year timeline we decided before we even touched African soil that it didn't make sense for us to ship our belongings over from Canada, and that we would find a furnished place to rent instead. In theory this seemed like the right approach. However; (there's always a however with these stories, isn't there?) we struggled trying to find a place that ticked all of the boxes: somewhere where I could go running from our front door, close enough to the office that I wouldn't be forced to get up before dawn and fight traffic everyday, a place with a nice outdoor space that would allow us to enjoy the incredible climate here and the outdoor braai culture (something that's a little tricky on a 10th floor flat), and was furnished. The long and short of it was that we were not going to find something that met all of our criteria, and was within our budget. And since the budget factor directly impacted our travelling fund, we were not willing to budge on price. The process of finding a place forced us to learn the neighbourhoods in the city, do our research, and become fast-friends with fellow-expats and locals in order to pick their brains for tips and tricks. We found the perfect unfurnished place, and after a few quick calculations (we are accountants, after all) we decided it made more sense to buy our own furniture rather than fork out the monthly rent for a suitable furnished place. While it took over three months before we actually had a couch, in the end we wound up with a lekker place that is perfect for us. 

When we set out on this adventure we knew that it was going to take a significant amount of time, luck, and patience in order for M to start his career here. In fact, we were not even convinced that it would be possible. We certainly hoped it would be though. Shortly after we arrived M had an interview that after a few weeks turned into a verbal offer. It was the perfect fit for him and would provide precisely the type of experience he was looking to gain here. And then the waiting began. For the written offer. For the work permit application to be submitted. For the work permit application to be approved. For the work permit application to be officially adhered to M's passport. We managed to use this time for M to tackle some of the administrative matters that go with settling in (see above car and apartment related drama), but there was still plenty of time for him to determine if he should forgo the workforce and join the pro circuit. When things were still in process (or limbo, depending on how you look at it), we decided to take a trip to Namibia, knowing that when (not if) he started work it would be awhile before we would be able to take time off together. This turned out to be one of the best trips M and I have ever taken. Seriously, Ever. And then, six months and three days from the day we landed in South Africa, M started work. It was the last piece of the settling-in puzzle for us, and represented a huge step toward the opportunity for this to be a game-changing experience for both of us, not only in life but also in our individual careers.

Before we moved here we were well aware (and aptly warned) that things in Africa take time. I've heard my co-workers and fellow expats mutter "T-I-A"  many times: This Is Africa. I'm certainly not saying this as a slam by any means (I did spend two years trying to make this move happen, after all), but more as a reminder of the fact that we knew in advance that we could not come here expecting things to happen the way they do in Canada, since, well, this isn't Canada. And let's be honest, an international move to anywhere is a mission. So, the fact that we've been able to settle into our life here without any major mishaps and even gain a few good stories along the way, is a resounding success in my books.

National Braai Day

September 24, 2013

South Africans are serious about their braai (BBQ). So much so that "Heritage Day" is known as National Braai Day. That's pretty serious.

So a little bit about Heritage Day first: it was initially endorsed as a public holiday in 2008 with the purpose of bringing about a greater unification, understanding and respect for the diversity of cultures, beliefs and traditions that make up the nation of South Africa. I think this Desmond Tutu quote from the inaugral Heritage Day sums it up really well:

"We're going to have a wonderful thing on the 24th of this month...when we all gather round one fire...it's a fantastic thing, a very simple idea. Irrespective of your politics, of your culture, of your race, of your whatever, hierdie ding doen ons saam (this thing we do together)...just South Africans doing one thing together, and recognizing we are a fantastic nation."

They actually fit together quite nicely- heritage and braaiing, that is. While there are many cultures, religions and races in South Africa, everyone has one thing in common: "When we have something to celebrate we light fires, and prepare great feasts" (quote and image from the National Braai Day website).

While we didn't braai on Braai Day this year per se (as we were travelling back from Swaziland), we have embraced this South African pastime with open arms. We made a point of buying a proper charcoal grill here (as opposed to the propane variety we are more accustomed to), and M has become very well-versed in the art of braaiing. With year-round weather that was built for being outside, it'd be hard not to want to adopt this bit of South African culture. And hey, what better way to celebrate life here than by lighting a fire?

World Rhino Day

September 22, 2013

They are one of the Big Five, putting them on every tourist's "must see" list when they come to Africa for a safari. And yet they could become extinct during our lifetime. 

And so, rhinos have their own special day to promote awareness and conservation on a global scale. Being in South Africa, where apparently 73% of the world's population of wild rhinos live, World Rhino Day is a big deal. I received a company-wide email at work promoting the day and encouraging support, and have seen posters and campaigns all over the country advertising the poaching statistics and the bleak future of these animals. Having had the opportunity to see many-a-rhino throughout southern Africa over the course of the last six months, I thought for my contribution to World Rhino Day I would dedicate a post to them. This one's for all the rhinos of the world.  

A few of the rhinos we've seen around southern Africa: Madikwe Game Reserve (South Africa), Pilansberg National Park (South Africa), Etosha National Park (Namibia) and Mkhaya Game Reserve (Swaziland); Centre image source: World Rhino Day

Alright, so why are they going extinct? Everything I read lately seems to tell the same story: rhino horn is believed in China and Vietnam to have medicinal properties, and when ground into a powder the horn is believed to be a cure for everything from bewitching nightmares, fever, dysentery and anxiety all the way to an antidote for poison (side note: contrary to popular belief, it is not considered to be an aphrodisiac). As a result, rhino hunting has been around for centuries in order to supply this highly saught-after medical ingredient. The sad part is that these beliefs are based on tradition Chinese medicine (TCM) practices dating back to the 1600's, and research has never been able to prove that rhino horn is actually effective.  

In order to address decreasing populations of rhinos worldwide, in 1987 the 100+ member countries of CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) agreed to shut down trade completely of all rhino products. However; the belief in the horn's healing properties created a huge market for poaching and illegal trading of the horn. The significant increase in poaching over the last five years is believed to be the result of illegal trade routes established through increased globalization. Given the steadily declining number of these creatures left on the planet, the market price per kilo of rhino horn is currently estimated to be more than double the going rate for gold (making poaching that much more appealing during economic hardships). 

The International Union for Conservation of Nature has added all five remaining species of rhinos to the "redlist" of highly threatened species, with three of the five species being classified as critically endangered. If the poaching continues at the rate it is going, it is believed that the number of deaths will overtake the number of births in the next three to five years, meaning that rhinos could very well become extinct in the near future.*   

*Source of graph, facts and statistics: Save the Rhino (data published by South African Department of Environment Affairs in 2013)

While this post was initially meant to be a tribute to the rhino, it also turned out to be a startling reality check for me of the very real possibility that if things do not change, and soon, these animals will only be found in photos. 

Kingdom of Swaziland

September 20, 2013

One of the things I've really enjoyed about being in South Africa (and writing this blog!) is expanding my (meager) knowledge of African history and politics. Case in point: while I knew that the Kingdom of Swaziland is a monarchy, I didn't understand how it is different from say, the United Kingdom. And alas, Wikipedia came to the rescue: the difference is that Swaziland is an absolute monarchy, whereas the U.K. is a constitutional monarchy. What this means is that Swaziland is one of only a handful of countries left in the world where the king has unconditional political power. I was asking M what this meant in real terms when we were in Swazi, and he said that if the king wanted to make me marry him, he could. Or, if he wanted to make all tourists hand over all of their assets to him, he could do that too. Awesome. Thanks for the lesson on political power, M...

While we did not meet King Mswati III during our stay, we did see his mug proudly displayed all over the country: his photo was reverently displayed behind every reception desk and above every bar, and sarongs with his portrait on them hung from clotheslines and were wrapped around local ladies galore.

We spent an extra-long weekend exploring the Kingdom that is Swaziland...

The Ezulwini Valley is known for its local craft shops; given that it poured rain all day on our first day in Swazi, I declared it a shopping day.

One of the main reasons I wanted to go to Swaziland was to visit Mkhaya Game Reserve; while it isn't home to all of the big 5 (there are no lions), it is known for its natural beauty, and for the number of rhinos that thrive here. 

Antelopes! Clockwise from top left: common waterbuck (male); white blue wildebeest (the white fur is due to a recessive gene: we were told this is very rare, and judging by the fact that we've never seen or heard of this before, I'm tempted to believe it's true); nyalas (female).

Male Nyala: perhaps he's looking for the lady nyalas at the watering hole in the previous photo?

I think these two were posing for me: this turned out to be one of my favourite buffalo shots to date!

White rhino spotting on our first game drive through the gorgeous landscapes of Mkhaya.

While we did not see any black rhinos this trip, we did see loads of white rhino. Mkhaya actually does not publish the number of rhinos living in the park as they are undergoing significant conservation efforts and want to protect the rhinos as much as possible from poachers.

Rhino road block.

Walking safari: We spent some time hiking through the plains, and got up close and personal with a few giraffes and a pair of rhinos. While we've seen both of these from the comfort of a 4x4, it provided a new perspective to be on the ground without a giant vehicle between us.

Rhino daycare at the watering hole: each of these pairs includes a mother and her young.

Hello horn.

It took a couple of days for the sky to clear after the rain; I love the dramatic clouds this created. I took this shot en-route from Mkhaya to Piggs Peak.

We spent our last night in Swazi at an eco reserve on the edge of the Phophonyane Falls in the north-western part of the country. We went for a hike to the falls followed by a swim in a natural pool fed directly from the falls. We loved this place.

The view, the falls, and the blossoming jacaranda trees. 

Before heading back to South Africa, we paid a visit to the teeny-tiny settlement of Bulembu. Before leaving for Swazi a friend at work suggested we include it in our itinerary, and arranged for someone to meet us there and explain the history of the town and the efforts being made to revitalize it through a community tourism project. Ironically, the children's choir from Bulembu had left the day before for a three-week trip to Alberta, Canada!

The road from the Bulembu border crossing through to Barbeton, South Africa provided stunning views of the surrounding mountain ranges for our drive home.