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Wednesday 31 July 2013

Red Cotton

July 30, 2013

Two years ago, amidst the scorching sun and towering Rocky Mountains, on a day we planned down to the last detail for over 18 months leading up to it, and surrounded by those nearest and dearest to our hearts, M and I traded our wedding vows. While it's completely unknown to either of us where our life together will take us, we were willing and ready to find out. And here we are, over 16,000 km from where we started, and yet barely off the start line. An incredible beginning, and so much more ahead.


M is a traditionalist at heart. Last year, he decided that he would build a tradition of honouring the traditional wedding anniversary gifts for me on each of our anniversaries. To keep things interesting we agreed on a budget of ten dollars. And so, I received "paper" in the form of scratch-tickets and a sweet hand-written card last year. Cotton is the traditional gift to celebrate a 2nd wedding anniversary, and according to Google, red is the conventional colour of choice. And so, for our red cotton anniversary (and with his budgeted R100), M presented me with a locally made cotton t-shirt with a red heart and outline of Africa on it. Perfect choice, my love!

Jewel of the Free State

July 26, 2013

According to Lonely Planet (and every single local we spoke to), Clarens is the place to go for a weekend away. However, no one could actually tell me why or what exactly to do there. But alas, we trusted, and packed ourselves into our car and headed 310 kilometres south to this tiny mountain town for two nights to get out of the city and to celebrate our upcoming anniversary. 

On a much smaller scale, it reminded us of Canmore; a very special little dot in the Canadian Rockies where we've spent many weekend getaways during our time in Alberta. 

The town sits next to Lesotho, with several mountain ranges serving as its backdrop. There is a main park in the centre of town, with quirky little shops, galleries and cafes lining all sides of the square's green space.  

Our favourite feature of Clarens: we parked our car on Friday night and did not move it again until Sunday when we were ready to make our way back to Joburg. With everything so close by, and a reputation for being very safe, our feet were the only transportation we needed. 

We ate our hearts out, hiked the nearby cliffs until we lost our breath, sampled the local brewery's specialties, enjoyed spectacular scenery, and basically just basked in Clarens for 48 hours. Bliss.

We did a leisurely hike around the cliffs near town on Saturday morning- not a soul in sight!

Exploring the town

Beer/Cider tasting at the local craft brewery

Signs around town

The Golden Gate Highlands National park is only 17km from Clarens, so we spent Sunday exploring the park before heading back to Joburg.

Tuesday 23 July 2013

Newtown

July 20, 2013

In our quest of seeing as much of this city, province, country as we can, our mission for Saturday was to explore Newtown.

Newtown is located in the heart of Johannesburg, and like the areas of Braamfontein, Maboneng, and Constitution Hill, it has been undergoing a rejuvenation in recent years to clean up the area, inject it with energy, and bring out some of the artsy funk.

We started in Mary Fitzgerald Square, which was named after South Africa's first female trade unionist. The most notable feature of the square is the sheer space; it really is a giant concrete square, and when it is not hosting an event, as was the case with we visited, it is very empty.  The square is lined on all sides with carved heads- the heads were carved from old railway sleepers by local artists (there is no indication of who each carving is...?). Random, but cool.

In addition to several museums, the area has a lot of music, art and dance venues; it seems like taking in an event here (perhaps during Jozi's Joy of Jazz festival?) would be the ideal way to really experience this neighbourhood. Here are some snapshots from our first visit to Newtown:

 Mary Fitzgerald Square

 Striking a pose with Brenda Fassie (famous South African musician who died in 2004) in front of the Bassline Jazz concert venue

Interesting graffiti alongside the Jazz Walk of Fame

Sunday 21 July 2013

It's In Your Hands Now

July 18, 2013


In 2008 Nelson Mandela gave a speech in Hyde Park in London, and he apparently misread his speech to say "it's in your hands now" rather than "it's in our hands" as was written. When asked later if it was a mistake or on purpose, Mandela said he had given the world a message: "...it is time for the next generation to take responsibility".

This message inspired the creation of International Mandela Day, on July 18. The Mandela Day website states the goal of the day to be: "...to inspire people to take action to change the world for the better and, in doing so, to build a global movement for good."

The idea is to spend one minute for each of the 67 years Mandela dedicated to service and sacrifice for this country and do something good. On July 18th, people all over the world are encouraged to spend 67 minutes in their communities working towards a common goal of making the world a better place to live.


For our 67 minutes, M and L joined me with my team at work to deliver blankets and soup to a home in the township of Alexandra. The home supports children and elderly women in the community; our team has a very close relationship with this particular home and the lady who runs it. It was truly inspiring and touching to see how close she is to our team, and to hear her say that we are not guests there to observe, but we are part of her family.


With no shortage of places and people that need our help, both here and around the world, I find it easy to get paralyzed by how to make the right impact. At the end of the day though, these people will sleep a little warmer and with a little more food in their bellies, and that felt like a great place to start.

Mandela Day coincides with Nelson Mandela's birthday. Happy 95th Birthday Madiba!

Monday 15 July 2013

Sunday Picnic

July 14, 2013

The Walter Sisulu National Botanical Gardens are located about 30km from the city centre of Joburg; about the right distance to escape to for a little sunny Sunday picnic! It reminds me a lot of Vancouver's Stanley Park, obviously on a much smaller scale and without the ocean, but with the manicured lawns, gorgeous gardens, and plenty of old-fashioned nature. A lovely spot to relax at the end of the weekend!


Constitution Hill

July 13, 2013 (Part 2)

Constitution Hill is a very real example of the changing South Africa, and of the new rising up from the old. 

The historical site of Johannesburg's notorious Old Fort prison complex dates back to 1892. In this place, thousands of people, including Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Ganghi, were brutally punished and held here before South Africa become a democratic country. South Africa's new Constitutional Court was built out of the remains of the Old Fort, and is now where rulings occur on both constitutional and human rights matters. 

It also operates as a bit of a museum/historic tour, providing yet another window into South Africa's past. We did a little self-guided walking/photo tour of the complex. Views from the hill are dominated by the 269m Telkom Tower (tower with the pink ball on it in the pictures below). 

Admiring the view on the hill


Exploring the grounds and sights of Constitution Hill

Lunch at the Neighbourgoods Market, follow by drinks at the Great Dane (Springbok shots anyone?)

From Here to There

July 13, 2013 (Part 1)

If you ask someone about the public transportation system in Johannesburg, they will likely tell you there isn't one. The city has a modern rapid rail system connecting Johannesburg to the capital city approximately 70km away (as well as to the airport), but for everyday, around town transit, everyone will tell you the city is in desperate need of a solution. Yet somehow, millions of people get where they need to go everyday, without a car. How is that possible? The answer is simple: a taxi. Now erase the image from your mind of a 4-door car with a "taxi" sign on the roof that provides a metered fair for one passenger/group of passengers all heading to the same place. Replace that picture with a 15-seater mini bus where people are constantly getting on and off at various locations. It's not far off from the type of local transportation one might experience in rural Africa (or many other less developed nations for that matter). The amazing thing is that this system functions, and very well, in the cosmopolitan and developed city of Johannesburg. 

I am fascinated by this system; the fact that there are no specific routes, no marked stops, and very limited information available on how to actually use this system, yet millions do, everyday. It operates by a series of hand signals, and when a taxi goes by they "hoot" and if they are going where you are indicating you want to go (enter hand signal), and there is room on board, they stop to collect you. 

G was able to find a bit of a pamphlet online that breaks down the symbols and which ones to use to get where.

 Heading into town- CBD please! (and yes, that's S back in Joburg for one day/night en-route home to the UK!)

 "Shot left" and we're out!

Sunday 14 July 2013

18 Holes

July 11, 2013

Golfing while your wife works? Sure, why not?!

We knew that M would want something to do during the days while I was working (and he was waiting to be able to do the same), so with some severe arm twisting (as you can imagine), he decided that golf would fit the bill quite nicely.


Since he's not much of a blogger, and I wanted to make sure to capture all the aspects of our combined experience here, I decided to embark on my first ever blog interview. Here are the results...

Me: What are the main differences between North American and South African golf courses?

M: Aside from the obvious difference that they are open 12 months of the year? Okay, It's sometimes hard to find the next hole; it is not always very clear where you're supposed to go. I may or may not have shot from the 18th hole towards the 17th fairway once... They also always ask if you want a caddy- they are readily available at the start of the course.

There is a lot of maintenance going on at the courses here. Generally they are in good repair, but like anywhere, some are much better than others.

Me: is the game/your game any different here?

M: Well, I'm not playing any better here than I did in Canada, even though I play and go to the driving range a lot more. As for the game, the ball goes further in the winter since it's so dry (but usually for me that just means further to the right...). Also, the distances are all in meters, versus yards, which makes it a lot harder to figure out what club to use.

Me: How much does it cost, on average, to play a round of 18-holes of golf in South Africa?

M: Mmm, about 150 rand (in Canadian: $15). Amazingly cheap, compared to home.

Me: How often do you play?

M: Uhh...twice per week if my wife lets me have the car...

Me: How many courses are there in the city of Johannesburg?

M: No idea (laughs), a lot.

Me: Like over 500? 200?

M: Maybe over 100? I need to google it...

Me: Do you often golf with people, or solo?

M: Usually with people, but sometimes by myself. The people are pretty friendly and often ask why the heck we moved to South Africa!

Me: Do you tell them it's so you can golf all the time?

M: Yup, definitely. 

Official 32nd

July 9, 2013

M spent the day golfing at the Royal Johannesburg, and then we went for a drink at Foundry, dinner at Turn'n Tender, and had cake from Fournos to celebrate.

M's Mom even sent a birthday card all the way from Canada, such a sweet touch! 

Happy Birthday babe!

Birthday in the Bush

July 5, 2013

While the 5th is actually four days before M's birthday, we decided to take a little getaway the weekend before to celebrate his first birthday in South Africa.

Pilanesberg is located less than three hours from Johannesburg, in the North West province. It is the fourth largest game reserve in South Africa, and is know for being a popular weekend destination for "Joburgers" to take to the bush, as it sports the big 5 (elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo and leopard) and is a Malari-free area (not something that is overly common for bush destinations).

Another key fact about this particular park is that it is known for being a great self-drive safari spot. To be honest, this terrified me at first. To date the only safaris I have done are those where someone much more experienced with African animals than myself is driving and guiding the tour in a large 4x4 vehicle. The thought of being at the wheel of a Hyundai Getz while an elephant made his way across the road was not very settling to me. However, when in Rome...or South Africa...

We settled on a combo self-drive/lodge stay for our little getaway.

The itinerary:
Friday night: relaxing dinner out in Joburg
Saturday: Drive to Pilanesberg, then drive ourselves around the south-eastern part of the park, and make our way up to the far north-west corner to an area known as the Black Rhino Reserve, to spend the night at Tambuti Lodge. Two game drives and amazing meals later, head out early Sunday afternoon.
Sunday afternoon: head back into the main area of Pilanesberg for one more self-drive before heading back to Joburg.

Amazing Friday night dinner at Stella E Luna in Parkhurst. 

Viewing game from a bird hide, and having lunch over looking the Mankwe dam.

The results of our first self-guided game drive!

Elephant spotting on our evening game drive in the Black Rhino Reserve.

Can't get enough of these guys!

While the rhinos we saw were all white rhinos (versus the elusive black rhino the park is named after), we saw a ton, and were the closest I have ever been to thee huge beasts.

This pic is for M- this particular rhino had a very unusually long and narrow horn, making her a bit of a legend among the rangers.

Evening skies in Pilanesberg. Subsequent to the sun setting, we saw a leopard trudging through the tall grass; however, given the bumpy road and that we were constantly moving to keep pace with the leopard, there are no photos to evidence this incredible experience!

While our ranger was unsuccessful at locating a lion on our morning drive, the scenery was spectacular and it was a gorgeous morning for a bush drive.

Our final self-drive of the weekend on Sunday afternoon (and our first hippo sighting in S.A.!). 

The verdict on self-drive: it is such a rewarding experience, and one we will definitely attempt again soon. A great weekend adventure to celebrate M's first S.A. birthday!

Night Market- Canada style

July 4, 2013

Continuing with the Canada-themed week, we met up with a few Canadians who have recently arrived in Joburg for a short term work assignment. In the spirit of sharing some of the lesser-known gems of the city, we took them to the Arts on Main night market. At only four days in, I hope this is the start of a great stay for them!

With only one night market per month, I think half of Joburg showed up for the occasion!

146 Years

July 1, 2013

It seems fitting that in honour of Canada's 146th Birthday we connected with Canadians in Joburg. G is also from Canada, and we had an old friend from my university days, L, who happened to be passing through Joburg stop by to celebrate Canada day with us! "Canada Day" in South Africa for us consisted of wearing red/Canadian gear and having a post-work BBQ! Perhaps I should have taken the advice given to me before we left Canada to bring along a Canadian flag or some sort of patriotic material, but it was nice to celebrate the day together, regardless of whether we had red maple leafs in the background or not!

As L was in town for a few days, we had the opportunity to catch up over drinks during the week, and M honed his tour-guide skills during the day while I was at work. It was great to catch up L, see you on your next stop-over!

Thursday 11 July 2013

Learning The Way

June 29, 2013

We have officially been in Joburg for three months. In some ways it feels like we are really starting to settle and set up our lives here, and in other ways it feels like we are still very new to our surroundings. I imagine both are true, in their own right.



Since I wrote this post, I've come across of a few more things to add, so I thought I'd update with a follow-up post. Here are a few more things worth noting:

1. When you press a button in the elevator (or lift, as the case may be), and you realize it's the wrong floor, you just re-push the button to unselect it. Amazing.

2. Most houses/buildings have outlets for three prong plugs. Except that most small appliances (cell phone charger, lamp, coffee maker, hair dryer, etc) are two prong. And no, you can't just plug the two prong into the three prong, that would be too easy. It actually requires a converter. So this pretty much guarantees that every plug in our house has a converter on it, either because it's a Canadian plug or because it's a two-prong plug.

3. At a restaurant, when the bill arrives, you need to write the tip on the slip before they swipe your card. I think this has something to do with the fact that all of the information is entered before the mobile credit machine is handed to you, so you just have to enter your PIN. It's not something you can just leave either, as the server will wait awkwardly until they know the total.

4. Where else can you find people with names like Memory, Wisdom, Progress and Patience?

5. Parking Guards: I must admit that I was a little apprehensive about this when I read about it before we arrived, but now I think it's brilliant. At most places where there are shops/restaurants, these lovely souls watch your car for you while you are shopping, and they even show you where the empty spots are, and help you when you're backing up to guide you out of the spot. Payment is usually a R2 or R5 coin (between $0.25 and $0.50 CAD).

6. People greet each other by kissing on the lips. I imagine this is by far not the only place in the world you could see this, but it's not something that is common in North America, and when I see two of my bosses kiss each other on the mouth at work, it catches me a bit off guard.

7. Johannesburg could, in a lot of ways, be easily confused with a city in any developed country in the world. However, the reminder of Africa comes when you pass a woman on the road carrying a basket piled high on her head, or when you see a dozen or so people crammed in the back of an open pick-up truck barrelling down the highway. Africa, indeed.

8. The keys to most houses are like old-school castle keys, or something you might use to open an old-fashioned wine cabinet, rather than a front door.

9. People drive nice cars. Regardless of the state or nature of their home, there could still be a Benz or an Audi parked out front. South Africans are fanatical about their cars.

10. In our first three months we have been stopped by the police twice. And neither time did we need to pay a bribe. This doesn't for a second mean I don't think our time will come, just that it hasn't yet. And for the record, we are on a mission to make it through our time here without handing over a single Rand under the pretence of a bribe. 

And Then There Were Three

June 22, 2013

Not every weekend has to be jam-packed with adventure. But adventure comes in different forms, and this weekend was one of revisiting places we know we love (playing scrabble whilst eating cake at Wolves, stopping for a late afternoon coffee at Daleah's in Braamfontein), visiting places next-door to places we know we love (relaxing with the post-Neighborgoods-Market crowd at Great Dane, strolling the streets and shops in Parkview), and meeting new friends to help save a place other people love (soaking up the sun on the lawn of the Bowls Club listening to local bands petition to save an 80-year-old Johannesburg institution). A weekend to love indeed. 


Wednesday 10 July 2013

Good Luck, S!

June 21, 2013

June 21 marked the end of S's three month secondment here in South Africa. Three months has come and gone so quickly;  it's hard to believe that if we'd gotten our way initially (two years ago when we were first entertaining the idea) we too would be packing up to head home. I know that while S wishes he could stay longer, he managed to cram a lot into his three months here, and in a lot of ways it feels like we've all been here much longer.

We met S our first week here, when he was only one week into his assignment. As evidenced by the photos and stories on this blog, we've spent a lot of time together in the last three months! We'll miss you around here, S!

S's "Last Supper" in Joburg, at The Local Grill

Here are a few thing we'll remember about our time here in Joburg with S:

1. Never quite understanding what he was saying. And the use of the words faffing and punchy.

2. The car parts we lost and the lessons we gained in Melville. 

3. Listening to the Breakfast Express together and being introduced to South African radio humour.

3. Drinking Rooibos tea after dinner. Sometimes with rusks, crunchies or chocolate, but always tea.

4. For M and S, everything is a competition. Settlers, Table Tennis, Golf...

5. After work runs around our neighbourhood, and trading stories of our experiences in the office.

6. Combining our first real road trip together with everyone's first SA safari in Madikwe. 

7. Picking out S's first SLR camera and hearing "what's your shit at?" when he was learning to shoot. 

8. Hiking Drakensburg and surviving our self-guided hike day (despite it being twice as far as we expected...).

9. Shopping for tennis rackets and teaching me to play tennis.

10. The progression of our flat from first having to eat dinner on the floor to eventually having a bench, then chairs, then a table, but still never having a couch for the entire three months.

Perhaps someday we'll have stories to add from the U.K., Canada, or Spain?