Coastal Christmas 1- Chintsa, Wild Coast

December 14, 2013

For the first stop on our Christmas trip, M and I were both looking forward to some quiet beach time. We chose a spot somewhat off the radar: Chintsa is part of the "Wild Coast", which is a stretch of coastline that isn't necessarily on most tourists to-do list as it can be tough to get to and isn't really on the way to anything. For the majority of the Wild Coast you need 4x4 to navigate the roads, and a significant amount of time, as roads are few and far between and a considerable amount of back-tracking is often required. Chintsa is a bit of an exception to this, as it's only about 40km north of the popular city of East London, and can (for the most part) be accessed in a regular car.

We could not have been happier with this little slice of heaven…M and I both said this was one of our favourite spots on the entire trip. The beach was gorgeous and fairly quiet. We spent our time reading on the beach, walking along the ocean, and sitting on our balcony drinking wine and playing cards…rough life, we know.

We broke up the drive to Chintsa with a night in Bloemfontein. While not exactly a tourist destination, Bloem is where JRR Tolkien was born, so it does have a bit of a Lord of the Rings claim to fame. Naturally, we stayed at the Hobbit Boutique Hotel. We also made a stop at the Loch Logan Waterfront for dinner. Not exactly the V & A Waterfront of Cape Town that it claims to be modelled after, but a nice spot to watch the sun go down none-the-less.

As soon as we arrived in Chintsa, M headed straight for the water. Naturally.

My idea of beach time...

Deciding whether or not to go in for a dip (I went in).

Happy to be at the beach, even if it means me dragging him for a walk... 

Our little 2-person bungalow was situated in the cliffs overlooking the lagoon and the ocean, and had a glorious balcony to relax and enjoy the view.

Morning sun through the clouds.

One last look at the water before saying goodbye to Chintsa!

As we left Chintsa we stopped in the small university town of Grahamstown en route to our next destination (Addo Elephant Park). A good friend of ours went to university here and insisted that the Rat & Parrot make the itinerary for a lunch stop. Thanks for the suggestion, R!

Coastal Christmas- The Overview

December 13, 2013

Traveling the southern coast of South Africa for Christmas.

Christmas holidays in the southern hemisphere are what happens when you take elements from the northern hemisphere's typical summer holidays (camping, beaches, sun) and combine it with a traditional Christmas vacation (family, good food, lazy days). Given that South Africans are basically doing two holidays at once, they take their time. Literally. Most offices close formally for over three weeks, with many people taking over a month off. And so, from sometime in late November until at least the middle of January, "silly season" is in full force. Work? What work?

December 13th marked the start of the Christmas holidays for us, and we embraced it in true-Joburger fashion- we left the city that same day and headed for the coast…

While most South Africans have one specific spot on the coast that they head to (a family home, a cottage, or just a vacation rental they visit year after year), we decided to make the coast itself our destination. We did venture inland here and there to see what there was to see (much to M's chagrin), but the coast was our main focal point.

Our itinerary included: relaxing on both Indian and Atlantic ocean beaches; taking in stunning views along cliffside roads and through historic mountain passes; spotting wildlife and getting up close with elephants, cheetahs, meerkats and penguins; tasting wine on many self-guided wine tours; and hiking through nature reserves and along ocean-side trails. When all was said and done, we covered over 5000km overland in 23 days. I think that meets the true definition of a road trip, no? 

While my picture-per-day ratio was not as high as on our Namibia trip (something to do with all the beach time, likely), I still managed to take over 3000 pictures in 23 days. Naturally, some sorting will be required in order to share the details of our adventure without boring everyone to tears, so in the meantime here are a few snapshots of the highlights...

Chintsa, Wild Coast

Addo Elephant National Park 

Jeffery's Bay, Sunshine Coast

Tenikwa, Plettenburg Bay

Wilderness, Garden Route

Oudtshoorn

Christmas in Dana Bay

Route 62, Wine Region

African Penguins in Betty's Bay

New Year's in Paternoster

Bainskloof Pass and The Great Karoo

Cape Town 3.0

December 6, 2013

When I was asked to return to Cape Town for work a few weeks after I was there in November, I wasn't exactly going to turn it down. M and I debated whether it made sense for him to join me for a weekend there again, but in the end decided that we couldn't pass up the chance to revisit one of our favourite cities. 

And so, this time around, we visited a few new neighbourhoods, beaches, seaside towns and sights that we hadn't explored on previous visits. I hesitate to say this in the event that it may jinx us, but yet again, we had incredible weather in the Mother City. And so…this is Cape Town 3.0.

Bo-Kaap: Formerly the Cape Malay Quarter, this little suburb is tucked into the base of Signal Hill and has quirky houses with unique stoeps lining the streets. Craftsmen, freed slaves and free traders settled in this neighbourhood in the late 18th century. We spent Saturday morning exploring this unique and colourful Cape Town suburb. 

Such vibrant colours. 

This is one of the wider and busier streets in Bo-Kaap; most of the smaller side streets still have traditional cobblestone.

One of the streets leading up to the base of Signal Hill. 

Love the scooter facing off with the beat-up car…

Traditional cobble-stone street with a couple of adorable kids who begged me to take their picture when they saw my camera. I don't typically oblige these sorts of request, but they were too cute and innocent to turn down. 

One of my now-favourite coffee shops in Cape Town.

Beadwork (colourful beaded animals in particular) is a uniquely South African craft, and while you can find it all over the place, the level of quality varies drastically. Housed in an unassuming run-down warehouse, this shop sells the best wire and beadwork I've seen anywhere in South Africa.

Muizenburg Beach: After spending the morning in Bo-Kaap and stopping for lunch at the Old Biscuit Mill market, we headed to the beach. This beach is about a half-hour drive from Cape Town, and is famous for its primary-colour painted bathing chalets. Apparently, I was having a thing for colourfulness on this particular trip to Cape Town.

The chalets did not appear to still be functional, as most of them were locked. They make for fun pictures though!

These guys were eager to get into the water.

Dramatic ocean skies.

Muizenburg is popular with locals, but like the rest of the Cape Town beaches, the water is icy cold! We went in the late afternoon and M went for a quick swim before we went for ice cream and some shopping in Kalk Bay (about 3km from Muizenburg).

On our first visit to Cape Town we attempted to make it to Signal Hill to watch the sunset, but ended up hiking Lion's Head instead (we didn't drive far enough along the road and didn't know we were in the wrong spot. Rookie mistake). This time, we made sure we had proper directions and found ourselves enjoying a stunning sunset over the Atlantic. We capped the day off with a lantern-lit dinner at La Mouette, a sweet French- Mediterranean restaurant in Seapoint. 

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens: After my morning jog along the promenade we decided to head to the city's famous botanical gardens for lunch. In the summer the park hosts live outdoor concerts, and we were fortunate to catch a local South African artist, Matthew Mole, doing his sound-check for that evening's concert. We were treated to a four-song mini-show as we sipped wine and ate our picnic.

I took this shot in the protea gardens, but I don't think it's a protea. I have no idea what kind of flower it is, but I thought it was lovely.

Paragliding: Something I have wanted to do since our first visit to Cape Town, we were finally treated to favourable flying weather. Despite M's fear of heights, he was all in for letting the wind carry him off of Signal Hill... 

My favourite moment was when the wind caught the shoot and my legs were still running but no longer touching the ground…M captured the play-by-play of my take-off on his iPhone.

Floating over the city and out to sea...

Settling in and floating over the city...

Guide:"hey bud, look up at the camera..."

M: "But look at that view!"

We made a quick stop in Camps Bay for pizza and beer before heading back to the airport to catch our flight to Joburg. Thanks CT for another incredible, memory-filled weekend! 

Hamba Kahle, Tata Madiba

December 5, 2013

At 95 years of age (1918-2013), Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela passed away.

Since the news spread, I started to hear and see the words Humba Kahle. It is a Zulu phrase that I understand to loosely translate to "go well" or "keep well" and is used to say goodbye when you're not really saying goodbye.

The death of Mandela was so much more than a passing thought. It shook the globe to the core and produced some of the largest events the world has ever seen. I read somewhere that Mandela's funeral was larger than those of Princess Diana, Michael Jackson and Pope John Paul II combined. It was reportedly one of the largest memorial services in history.

For me, the moment when I found out Mandela had died froze time in my mind's memory bank. Something similar happened when I heard of Princess Diana's death and of the terrorist attack on the twin towers in New York. I will always know where I was and what I felt (or was unable to feel) in those first few precious moments. The difference for me with those events is that I wasn't there. And so, after following the news for a few days and hearing bits and pieces of the stories, eventually it faded from my immediate world, and life went on.

But for Mandela, I was here. From the spreading of the news the moment it was announced. To the public memorial service held at soccer city that drew over 90 world leaders and 80,000 people to the FNB stadium in the pouring rain to sing and dance and offer words of inspiration, condolences and praise. To the thousands of people that viewed his body lying in state in the capital city of Pretoria. To the formal funeral service held ten days after his death to lay Madiba to rest in his home town of Qunu in the Eastern Cape.

And in-between all of that, what the whole world was a part of, I was here.  On my way to a team dinner I walked past Nelson Mandela Square and had to choke back tears at the unimaginably huge piles of flowers, letters, gifts, and messages that had been left for Mandela in the soggy, wet square. Little pre-lit plastic candles were being handed out to people coming to the square, and my co-worker and I each took ours and found a quiet spot on the square to place our light in honour of Mandela. At work every TV in every common area was playing a live stream of the events, and at times there was standing-room only as everyone gathered around the TV. During Obama's speech at the memorial service, you could have heard a pin drop. Out in the city, and in the rest of the country, every shop and business had some sort of a sign honouring Madiba. As we drove the 1000km stretch of highway from Johannesburg towards Qunu we noticed every tiny town had adorned their street-lights with posters of Madiba.

While M and I wouldn't claim for a second to share the same depth of understanding of the bond South Africans had, and continue to have, with Mandela, we were humbled to mourn and honour together with South Africans.

I've heard that when the World Cup was held here in 2010 South Africa as a nation was nervous about making the right impression on the rest of the world. They knew the world's eyes were upon them, and wanted to show the pride and joy that anyone who's spent a little time here knows is inherent in the South African culture. For this though, South Africans honoured and were honoured as they bid farewell to the father of their nation. No pretence, no nerves. Just a remarkable unity of spirit that no sporting event could ever compete with.

There is no doubt in my mind that Mandela's legacy and spirit not only left their mark, but continue on here in South Africa. Humba Kahle, Tata Madiba.

 Flying at half mast in Cape Town the day following the news of Mandela's death.

In Cape Town at the Nelson Mandela Gateway flowers and gifts started to accumulate just hours after the news of his death was announced.

In Kirstenbosch Gardens in the Western Cape, visitors left letters at the foot of a Mandela statue.



Flowers, gifts and candles en mass in Nelson Mandela Square in Johannesburg (the famous Mandela statue can be seen on the far right).

Remembering Mandela outside the government buildings in Grahamstown.



 A sampling of some of the signs around various parts of South Africa.

Under Mandela's photo in the banner above it reads, "Be Somebody".

  Hamba Kahle, Tata.

Tuesday Night with DMB

December 3, 2013

In university I think I saw the Dave Matthews Band perform in Toronto at least three times. Probably more. They are a band to see live; they have a following, and every concert is different. They are musicians first, performers second, but they were made for live jam sessions, which makes for an incredible show. When I found out they were coming to Joburg, I was in. But more than that, Dave Matthews is actually South African. And this was to be his first time performing in the city where he was born. In in in...

Highlights from the show included the band sharing the stage with two world renowned South African artists: folk legend Vusi Mahlasela and jazz trumpeter Hugh Masekela, as well as a phenomenal cover of Sixto Rodriguez's Sugar Man as part of the encore. All in all, this was very possibly the best DMB concert I've seen yet. You killed it in your motherland, Dave!

Rocking out with DMB at the Coca-Cola Dome on a Tuesday night.

The set list from the show:

1. Too Much

2. Still Water (Daniel Lanois cover- teaser)

3. Don't Drink the Water

4. If Only

5. What Would You Say

6. Crush

7. You Might Die Trying

8. Everyday (with Vusi Mahlasela)

9. Spaceman

10. Cornbread

11. Crash Into Me

12. Proudest Monkey (with Hugh Masekela)

13. Grazing in the Grass (with Hugh Masekela)

14. Rooftop

15. You & Me

16. Jimi Thing

17. Ants Marching

Encore:

18. Sugar Man (Sixto Rodriguez cover)

19. Grey Street

20. All Along the Watchtower (Bob Dylan cover)

Enjoying Jozi

November 29, 2013

One of the things I love most about Jozi is just spending time here with great people having great conversation while enjoying great food. I know you can find that in a lot of places, but something about the year-round outdoor weather, the welcoming and friendly social culture and the plethora of lovely spots to enjoy company make it all very conducive for relaxing among friends.

Given this was our last weekend in the city before the Christmas holidays, we made it count: we spent time catching up over dinner with a remarkable friend (someone who was very instrumental in us coming here in the first place), we introduced our favourite South African couple to one of our go-to spots in the city (Neighborgoods market), we enjoyed an al fresco dinner with the first person we met when we arrived in the city exactly eight months ago (and who went above and beyond to help make our transition as seamless as possible), and then we capped off the weekend being treated to a true South African family braai. Whew! And the best part?  We hope for many more weekends just like this one in the new year.